This Mayan archaeological site was discovered after the ones of
Chichén Itzá
and Uxmal (open daily
from 8AM to 5PM, MXN$49).
Twenty kilometers from Mérida,
the ancient Mayan city of Dzibilchaltún is located in a National
Park which protects the cultural, natural and historic heritage
of the area while providing information about it. The Museum of
the Mayan People displays the aspects of a living culture, faithful
to its ancestral traditions. It has been continuously inhabited
since 300 B.C. to the Conquest and was mainly devoted to the salt
trade. During its splendor peak (800 A.D.), its population reached
25,000 inhabitants. They then built 25 monuments, administrative
buildings and palaces for the elite, around two main places.
On the Main Place, by the cenote of Xlacah, the
open chapel shows evidence of evangelism.
Right picture : Burial chambers in Dzibilchaltún
At the end of a 500m (1640 feet) long white trail (sacbé,
in Maya), is the Temple of the Seven Dolls, named for the seven
statuettes excavated. The architecture is not common : the temple
is like a calendar: during the equinoxes, the rising sun shines,
with an astronomic exactitude, directly through the door and windows.
It is the big attraction of this archaeological zone. It is wonderfully
restored and shows unique pieces in Mayan region, pieces that are
still unexplained like the 4 faces of the temple, unique in the
area. It is also the only temple with windows. Very primitive Chaac
masks are above the doors and corners of the building.
The cenote of Dzibilchaltún is also worth the visit. Even
if it is twice smaller than the one in Chichén
Itzá (30 m (98 feet) of diameter), it was also a place
for sacrifices. The frogmen of the National Geographic Society estimate
the depth of water at 44 m (144 feet), meaning 30m (98 feet) deeper
than Chichén
Itzá. And, because of the numerous human bones found
among the 30,000 objects removed from there, we can say that human
sacrifice was practiced on a large scale in this cenote. All the
excavated pieces are displayed in the museum (museo del Pueblo
Maya, open 8AM-4PM, closed on Monday, MXN$46).
Mayapán
Located 45 km (27 miles) south from Mérida,
on the Convents road, Mayapán was built in 1221, after the
rout of Chichén
Itzá by Hunac Ceel, one of its governors. Under the power
of the Cocom family, the new capital of the Itzaes dominated the
northern and western provinces of Yucatán during 250 years.
The architecture of Mayapán is reminiscent of the grandeur
and prestige of Chichén
Itzá, its predecessor : the Kukulcán temple and
the round building are the smaller replicas of El Castillo and El
Caracol. The archaeological excavations engaged by the Carnégie
Institute of Washington showed a walled city protected against any
military attack. Inside, there are civil administrative and religious
buildings, as well as the residences of the governors and a spring.
Nice murals show warlike scenes and the death worship.
At mid fifteenth century, a rebellion against the governing family
led to the looting and abandon of the city of Mayapán (open
daily, 8AM-5PM, MXN$31).
Biosphere
reserves
Thanks to the huge biological richness, several parts of the littoral
were named biosphere reserves and are internationally recognized.
They house more than 580 species of vertebrates, 95 species of reptiles,
71 species of fish and 356 species of birds, including 35,000 pink
flamingos. They have nice beaches and spectacular scenery. The fishing
villages offer the essential tourist services.
Reserve of Celestún (west coast)
At the west of the state, 92 km (57 miles) from Mérida,
the Ria Celestún Biosphere Reserve is made by a 20 km (12.4
miles) long estuary that can been visited by boats with authorized
guides waiting for the tourists at the entrance of the reserve.
To the very north, there are many colonies of pink flamingos looking
for food.
The Caribbean pink
flamingo is one of the largest, most colorful and most beautiful
birds in the world. Visitors come from far away to admire
this fabulous ancient bird in its natural environment and
to get excited watching a flock of pink flamingos flying in
the sky. Celestún is a paradise for birdwatchers and
photographers of nature because it is the habitat of many
species of endemic and migratory birds.
The
boat tour in the mangrove swamps allows you to watch grey herons,
egrets, ducks, white pelicans and pink spoonbills. While navigating
in the estuary and the canals winding among the mangroves, you will
reach Valdiosera and Venecia, two fresh water springs where the
clear water is good for swimming or apnea diving. The petrified
forest of Tampeten, with strange shaped trees and a ghost atmosphere,
is another attraction of the area (open daily, 8AM-5PM, entrance
fee: MXN$ 25; 2 hour boat ride : MXN$450 for 8 persons). Close to
the harbor, there is a quaint beach where you can find picturesque
restaurants specializing in fresh fish and seafood.
Right picture
: flight of pink flamingos
Log on to the website about ecotourism in Celestún reserve
:
Reserve of Ria Lagartos (north-east)
: Located at the other end of the state, this reserve is also a
natural sanctuary where the birds take refuge. Before travelling
above the Gulf of Mexico, the migratory birds rest
a last time there. More than 330 species of aquatic birds, including
the pink flamingos, reproduce there too. El Cuyo basin shelters
a unique reproducing colony in North-America. Travelling the estuary,
you can admire the landscape made of mangroves, marsh and low vegetation
and you can observe the abundant fauna : a crocodile gliding smoothly
through the water, a majestic jabiru stork, a white-tailed deer,
a small tiger or an imposing jaguar.
You can go kayaking along the mild-waves littoral. During the Summer
full moon nights, the sea turtles – called white turtles and
hawksbill turtles- come there for nesting (open daily, 8AM-5PM,
entrance fee : MXN$ 25; 2hour boat ride: MXN$450 for 8 persons).
In front of Puerto Progreso Coast, the reef of the scorpions (alacranes)
is a new place to explore. Despite it is far from the continent,
this beautiful 29 km (18 miles) long reef, with five sandy islets,
is worth the adventure, especially for the divers.
Izamal :
This is a charming colonial village located 70 km (43miles) from
Mérida, on the road to Chichén
Itzá. It got the nickname of "ciudad amarilla"
because of its yellow-earth and white houses. This village is part
of the "magic villages
". It is the oldest village in Yucatán
Peninsula. Its name in Mayan language is Itzamatul or "dew
coming from the sky". It is an important trade center in the
region. Seven Mayan pyramids were built; one of them was used by
the Spanish for the construction of the du majestic convent San
Antonio de Padua.
The
Anthony of Padua monastery was built on top of the Popul Chac pyramid,
using its stones. It is a true symbol : The most important catholic
monastery of New Spain
was made from the most important Mayan temple. Fray Diego de Landa
and the Franciscan missionaries needed an imposing and majestic
monastery in order to impose the Hispanic culture and catholic religion
on the Mayan people and to mark the end of one world and the advent
of another. You still can see some traces of the Mayans artisans
on some stones. By the side, in the church, you can see frescos
dating from the sixteenth century.
Right picture
: monastery of Padua Anthony
The convent has the biggest atrium after San Peter’s in the
Vatican. Pope John Paul visited it while in Mexico
in 1993. Every August 15th, there is the celebration of the Virgin
of Izamal. Visitors can have a ride in a horse drawn carriage in
a labyrinth of colorful streets, parks and historic places. Fray
Diego de Landa (second Bishop of Yucatán in the sixteenth
century) seems to be alive and talks about the everyday things of
this village proud of its past. By night, experience the show of
the welkin lined with the shadows of the pyramids, temples and other
big colonial buildings. It feels like you are dreaming !
Light and Sound « Voice and Magic of Izamal », in the
Convent every Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday at 8:30 PM
in Spanish and Maya, with the lighted monastery in the background.
It is Fantastic!
Two blocks north from the Zócalo, the Kinich Kakmó
pyramid, built to honor Sun God, mainly excavated, is worth the
detour. With 195 m (639 feet) wide, it was one of the biggest in
the Peninsula.
On the road towards Mérida,
stop at the entrance of the village of Hoctún, famous for
its strange cemetery with graves painted with floral designs by
local artists.
What does it mean : tentative list in the World Heritage
?
A Tentative List is an inventory of those properties
which each State Party intends to consider for nomination during
the following years. States Parties are encouraged to submit in
their Tentative Lists, properties which they consider to be cultural
and/or natural heritage of outstanding universal value and therefore
suitable for inscription on the World Heritage List.
Extract of Unesco website :
Izamal is known as the "Hill City" because it has in its
urban zone, several archaeological vestiges located on the hill
sides. The extension of the remains of pre Hispanic constructions
as estimated could occupy an area of 10 kilometers square.
Today city of Izamal was a remarkable site of the
ancient Mayan civilization. It was probably the largest large city
of plains of the north of Yucatán. The investigators have
found and catalogued around 80 pre Hispanic structures within the
layout of the city. One of the most important pyramids is the Kinich
Kak Moo, that is the third pre-Hispanic structure of greater volume
in Mexico and at least two stone roads are known,
called sacbeóob (ways) that communicated it with other important
settlements.
The dimension of its buildings and the network
of roads, constructed between 600 and 800 A.C., are evidence of
the political and economic power that Izamal exerted on a vast territory,
larger than five thousand kilometers square. Here a particular construction
technique was developed, mainly by using megalithic carved blocks,
with defined architectonical characteristics like rounded corners,
projected moldings and superstructures done with perishable materials.
Of the hegemony of Izamal on an ample region is
evidenced by the roads that joined the city with dependent populations
- like Kantunil, 18 kilometers to the south, and Aké, 29
kilometers to the west and by the control upon commerce and the
production of salt through Xcambó, a port located at the
Northern coast of the peninsula.
Five pre-Columbian structures are still visible
in Izamal (and from a considerable distance in all directions).The
first one is a pyramid dedicated to a solar deity, Kinich Kak Moo,
which means macaw of fire, solar face, where worship is rendered
to this deity as a source of life, by offering flowers, fruits,
animals and aromatic substances. This building is the highest of
Yucatan and, by its volume, the third most important of the country.
It reaches 35 meters of height. In the base its walls measure 195
meters from east to west and 173 meters from north to south. Upon
this base a pyramid of 10 levels exists.
Towards the Southeast there is the so called pyramid
Itzamatul and, located at the south flank of what used to be an
enormous square, there is a structure denominated Ppap Hol Chak,
partially destroyed in the 16th century when the Franciscan monastery
was constructed upon it.
The southwestern side of the central square is
limited by another well-known pyramid Hun Pik Tok, and in the west
the public space is closed with the temple of Kabul, where a great
stucco large mask of Itzamná god existed, which was drawn
in 1840 by Federick Catherwood and published by John Lloyd Stephens.
Other residential constructions that are samples
of Izamal's historical development are the Xtul, the Habuc and the
Chaltun Has. These great knolls are witnesses of a process of superposition
of buildings that lasted several centuries and that originally supported
a series of temples and palaces.
In order to determine the religious social, political
and administrative importance of pre-Hispanic Izamal, it is convenient
to mention that after more than one decade of research works, 163
archaeological structures have been mapped within the urban area
of the contemporary city and also thousands of residential units
in a series of pre Hispanic communities located in the surroundings
have been registered. Also, in the whole region that historically
was called Ah Kin Chel, hundreds of sites have been detected that
shared the same architectonic characteristics of Izamal. At the
present time, there are still little more than 20 structures left
that all together make of Izamal, archaeologically spoken a first
rank site for the country.
After the conquest of Yucatán in the 16th
century, the Spaniards demanded the foundation and construction
of a city, which began upon the existing Mayan city. Due to the
presence of two enormous structures, it was decided to build a small
Christian temple on the greater pyramid and a great Franciscan convent
upon the Acropolis. This convent received the name of San Antonio
de Padua.
The construction of the convent began in 1553 by
fray Diego de Landa. Given the dimensions of the pyramid, the land
of the set of the church and the caretaker's office of the convent,
chapel and vestibule, occupy 14 thousand 678 square meters. The
church is found in the center with its facade to the west. The temple
and caretaker's office were finished in 1554. The architect of this
last part was fray Juan de Mérida.
The work of the convent concluded in 1561, being guardian fray Francisco
de la Torre.
The church has a barrel vault and tracery, some
windows of Moorish arcs and flying buttresses in the apse that give
it an excellent aspect. It conserves the title of the Purísima
Concepción (the Purest Conception). It is a single ship
of 51,90 meters in length. In the central part the two lateral doors
communicate to the left with the convent and the right with a common
courtyard and the chapel of the Third Order.
To the north of the church the convent was built,
to the east the orchard and the cemetery with his chapel; in the
lower part are located, to the south, the temple of the Third Order
and, to the west, the great vestibule, whose arcade was finished
in 1618.
And so was built what would be the greatest religious
center of the Mayan converted to the Catholicism in the Yucatán
Peninsula; like in pre-Hispanic time when worship was rendered
to Itzamná, Izamal became the destiny of multiple peregrinations
that - still today, arrive daily to celebrate patron saints in the
diverse chapels of the site.
Also, Izamal has been named "City of the Three Cultures",
in reference to the architectonic and cultural fusion of the pre-Columbian,
colonial and modern societies in the architectural styles found
in its houses and public spaces that have given identity to its
inhabitants.
Izamal has been a great center of religious peregrination
from immemorial times. For the Mayans of today, Izamal continues
being the destiny of their pilgrimages, since the image of the Immaculate
Conception of Maria, gained its devotion. The image that presides
over the greater altarpiece of the temple of the convent - Our Lady
of Izamal - was taken to Izamal from Guatemala by orders of Fray
Diego de Landa (the well-known and controversial bishop from Yucatán,
author of the "Relation of the things of Yucatán"
who lived in Izamal).
In Izamal the Mayan language is spoken, at least,
as much as Spanish. As for the language, the rites, the architecture,
in this community of sober, white and yellow houses, ancestral customs
remain : the crossbred food, the way of dressing, the music... daily
routine expressions are the synthesis of a distant past in the time,
but as near as the Mayan monuments that rise in the center of the
town, between houses of the colonial time (end of extract) :
Valladolid : It is
the second city in Yucatán and the oldest one (464 year old).
It has preserved its provincial charm and colonial flavor. On the
main place, the Indigenous women, sitting in a row in front of the
church, offer colorful cross stitched embroidery to the people.
You can try freshly prepared fruits, delicious tapas or typical
sweets in the nice shadowed park surrounded by a wrought iron railing.
The majestic Church of San Gervais dominates the plaza. It was also
built with stones from Mayan temples, as everywhere in Yucatán.
So, you can see above the portico the sculpted body of a Mayan serpent
mixed with the Franciscan architecture.
The Convent of San Roque, converted into the Museum of the cultural
heritage of Valladolid, and the city hall, which houses nice murals
by Manuel Lizama, can tell the history of the city. This city was
founded on May 28, 1543 by Francisco de Montejo, el Sobrino (the
nephew) on the top of the ancient Mayan city of Zaci. This city
is called the Heroic Town because it was the scene of many historic
warlike events. The Caste War began here in 1847 and also the first
signs of the Mexican Revolution
on June 4, 1910. Valladolid is a very nice stop and an excellent
strategic place to visit the archaeological sites nearby. The Zócalo
and ex-convent of San Bernardino or Sisal are the busy places to
visit as well as the cenote Zaci. Half covered by a huge vaulted
stone, this cenote, with deep green waters, can be walked around
on a cemented walkway. Hundreds of bats found refuge in the caves
(open daily, 8AM-5PM).
If you want to swim, pick the cenotes of X'Kekén
(Dzitnup) and Samula a few miles from Valladolid. Open from 7AM
to 6PM; entrance fee : a few pesos.
It is a good stop before going to Chichén
Itzá and it is more affordable than Cancun.
ConventsRoute
South of Mérida, the Convents
Route is a day trip leading to some out-of-the-way places in the
heart of the state. The convents were built just after the Conquest.
It is easier to visit them by car.
UMAN, convent dating from the sixteenth century (18 km or 11 miles
from Mérida, open 7AM-12noon
and 5-8PM).
MUNA, convent dating from the seventeenth century (64 km or 40 miles
from Mérida, open 7AM-1PM
and 4-8PM). There is an interesting celebration on August 15th,
with folk dances. Local craft for sale (same opening hours).
OXKUTZCAB, founded by the Xius after the abandon of Mani, from 1581
to 1699 (109 km or 68 miles from Mérida, open 7AM-1PM and
4-8PM). Fruit Capital of Yucatán with a huge daily fruit
market.
MANI, with an open chapel and the temple of the convent of St. Michael
the Archangel dating from1549. It is where Fray Diego de Landa ordered
the destruction of the Mayan documents and statues. (96 km or 60
miles from Mérida, open 6AM-12noon and 5-7PM).
TEABO, famous for its two sacred buildings , the Parish and ex-Convent
of San Pedro and San Pablo built in the seventeenth century (84
km or 52 miles from Mérida,
open 7-10AM and 5-7PM).
CHUMAYEL, convent dating from the sixteenth century (temple of the
Immaculate Conception with a black wooden Christ) -80 km or 50 miles
from Mérida, open 7AM-12noon
and 4-8PM).
MAMA, Franciscan temple and ex-convent built in 1612, surrounded
with a nice garden displaying saints in niches (71 km or 44 miles
from Mérida, open 6AM-2PM
and 5-7PM).
TEKIT is a prosperous city where the church of San Antonio de Padua
displays saints in every corner. The church looks like a museum.
(64 km or 40 miles from Mérida).
TECOH, convent and church dedicated to the Virgin of the Assumption.
The church was built on top of a Mayan pyramid. Many paintings are
still visible. Local craft for sale too. (34 km or 21 miles from
Mérida).
ACANCEH is famous for the Plaza of the three cultures. The temple
dedicated to “Our Lady of Nativity” and the chapel of
the "Virgin of Guadalupe" are unique because of the pure
Franciscan style (26 km or 16 miles from Mérida).
Haciendas route The city of Mérida is surrounded by low vegetation,
uniform landscape broken by high brick-red chimneys. These chimneys
indicated the presence of ancient Haciendas of sisal.
The Haciendas of sisal started in the mid nineteenth century thanks
to a specific plant, variety of agave, the henequen, better known
under the name of sisal. The extraordinary high demand of hard fibers
on the international market, mainly for the American industry of
ropes, brought, from 1880 to 1920, the henequen in the industry
of Yucatán. This region was converted in an area of “Green
Gold”. The henequen declined after World War II when it was
replaced by synthetic fibers.
The thick leaves of this plant produce hard fibers used for making
bags and ropes of every size, from the thin cords to hang the hammocks
to the cords to tie the wheat bunches and big ropes for mooring
the boats.
Nowadays, the numerous haciendas are the witnesses of this period
of wealth. Most of them became villages; some are still working
the henequen in a small scale while other are converted to luxurious
hotels, tourist places or museums. They all were restored in the
best historic and architectural way.
Right picture
: indian women leaving the market
Originally, many haciendas were farms dedicated to the culture of
corn or cattle raising. They were then converted to sisal plantations,
with diverse styles. The entrance of a hacienda is often marked
by picturesque Moorish arches. The thick plastered stone walls of
the main buildings as well as the steep roofs with tiles imported
from Europe protected the people from the heat. The house was oriented
according to the winds, in such a way that the air could circulate
through the house.
Every Hacienda comprised the same outbuildings set around the main
central courtyard: the main house, the chapel, the store, the machine
house, the administration building and the jail constituted the
economic and social center. Within the thick walls, there were also
a well, the orchard, the poultry-yard, the esplanades for manoeuvre
and areas for hanging out the fibers to dry.
The Haciendas were administrated by butlers who were in charge of
the finances, brought goods and dictated the rules.
Cutting the agave leaves was hard work and needed many men. Despite
the local people, Chinese and Korean workers as well as northern
Mexican Yaqui Indians were hired. The trucks (small flat wagons),
riding on some kind of railways called decauville, carried 2.5meter
( 8 feet) long leaves from the huge sisal fields to the machine
house for peeling and drying stages. The long railways led also
to the main villages and the other haciendas.
Several Haciendas preserve the essence of the glorious days of the
henequen. Recently renovated, they are an ideal alternative for
safeguarding an essential part of the historic heritage of Yucatán.
The Haciendas, with their elegant arches, fresh verandas with wicker
rocking chairs, marble floors and sepia portraits, offer a romantic
trip in Yucatán back in time.
Some Haciendas are nowadays luxurious hotels welcoming people in
an intimate and pleasant atmosphere. It is the best place for resting
and tasting Yucatan cooking.
You can visit the Haciendas SAN JOSE in Tixkokob, SANTA ROSA in
Maxcanú, TEMEZÓN in Abalá, UAYAMON in Chiná
(Campeche State), YAXCOPOIL in the village with the same name, SOTUTA
DE PEON in Tecoh, TEPICH in Mayapán or OCHIL in Abalá.
Progreso : It was a
small fishing village located 36 km (22 miles) north from Mérida.
It now has more than 50,000 inhabitants. Take the road to the long
sandy beaches of Progreso. Have a look at the 7 km (4.3 miles) long
pier, the longest in the world. It was built mainly for the cruising
ships. You can swim and enjoy the excellent seafood. Departures
every fifteen minutes from the Autoprogreso Terminal of Mérida.
City map of Progreso :
What is a "cenote"? This come from the Mayan word "Dzonot"
meaning "water sinkhole". There are unique in the world.
They were both a way to obtain fresh water in a forest and a sacred
place : For Mayan people, they were the gateways to afterlife.
With a calcareous and porous soil, the peninsula has almost no river.
This kind of soil often collapses creating open water pools. It
is the opportunity for discovering a spectacular landscape made
of a network of underground clear, green and turquoise waters. The
formation of stalactites and stalagmites, true art works, and the
daylight going through the interstices of the rocks and shimmering
on the clear water offer a unique visual show to the visitors.
The cenotes have different shape and size depending on their location.
Many offerings, jewels and human bones, thrown by the ancient Mayan
people, were discovered there.
There are many "cenotes" distributed in the whole State.
The most famous are the ones in X'Kekén (Dzitnup), Ik'kil,
Bolonchocol and Kankirixche.
There are also many underground caves beneath Yucatán. There
are linked with a net of tunnels. These caves were and still are
sacred places for Mayan people. The most important caves are in
Loltún, Calcehtok and Balamkanché; they are part of
the "archaeological routes" such as the Puuc
Route (Uxmal, Kabah, Sayil, X'lapac and Labná) and the
Eastern Route (Izamal, Chichén
Itzá, Valladolid, Ticopó,
Yaxunah and Ek'Balam).
Diving in the "cenote" Dos
Ojos
The "cenotes" and the caves of Yucatán
offer a unique experience, a dive into a magic world whose
beauty seems unreal............ A gift from the Gods.
The "cenote" Dos Ojos
is located 1 km (0.6miles) south from Xel-Ha (QR).
Around
Mérida and in the state of Yucatán 
Imprimer
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This Mayan archaeological site was discovered after the ones of
The cenote of Dzibilchaltún is also worth the visit. Even
if it is twice smaller than the one in 
The
boat tour in the mangrove swamps allows you to watch grey herons,
egrets, ducks, white pelicans and pink spoonbills. While navigating
in the estuary and the canals winding among the mangroves, you will
reach Valdiosera and Venecia, two fresh water springs where the
clear water is good for swimming or apnea diving. The petrified
forest of Tampeten, with strange shaped trees and a ghost atmosphere,
is another attraction of the area (open daily, 8AM-5PM, entrance
fee: MXN$ 25; 2 hour boat ride : MXN$450 for 8 persons). Close to
the harbor, there is a quaint beach where you can find picturesque
restaurants specializing in fresh fish and seafood.
The
Anthony of Padua monastery was built on top of the Popul Chac pyramid,
using its stones. It is a true symbol : The most important catholic
monastery of 
What does it mean : tentative list in the World Heritage
? 
UMAN, convent dating from the sixteenth century (18 km or 11 miles
from 
Nowadays, the numerous haciendas are the witnesses of this period
of wealth. Most of them became villages; some are still working
the henequen in a small scale while other are converted to luxurious
hotels, tourist places or museums. They all were restored in the
best historic and architectural way. 
