is a charming colonial city, far from the main roads. It is an old
mining center and the capital of the silversmith’s trade.
Arrive from Iguala to discover the white city from the west or arrive
on the road from Cuernavaca.
You will be stunned by the setting of this special city. Arrive
early morning or late afternoon to experience the best views.
The best time of year to spend in Taxco
is Holy Week. Maundy Thursday and Good Friday are the days the richest
with processions and the emotions that accompany them.
Wednesday before Easter we sat on the second floor of the
restaurant "La Parroquia" to overlook the Plaza Borda
and one of the processions. There were a lot of people watching
the diverse groups marching : athletic, dance or song clubs. People
are sometimes barefoot and bare-chested, lifting up a float carrying
a Saint or a Virgin.
Others (los encorvadas) have tethered feet and walk bent
at the waist. Bells announce a new group. The processions are accompanied
with drums and sometimes a band; children represent angels.
9:00PM : Procesión de la Santisima Trinidad. Empieza (beginning)
en la Plazuela de San Nicolás Tolentino.
Maundy Thursday : The processions re-enact
the last days of the Christ. The Christs arrive from the diverse
surrounding villages. We meet a bike-procession; the bikes are adorned
with purple paper flowers (purple represent death); the bikers accompany
the Christ and come from Sochula, 50 km from Taxco.
Masses are said several times a day in diverse churches in the city.
We happened to arrive at the San Miguel church when mass was said
and sung outside in order to welcome more people. Then, we crossed
a procession of soldiers dressed in red: these soldiers were looking
for Jésus. Later, on Plaza Borda, mass is said outside too
and everyone burst into song.
The soldiers, dressed in red, which were looking for Jésus
found him and taught him how to fight.
During the mass, the penitents start barefoot and hooded. They wear
a kind of black skirt held at the waist by a rope. They carry a
huge bundle of thorny cane strapped to their shoulders and hands.
Each of them is accompanied by three people: one walks backwards
in front of him to point out the ruggedness of the street and the
two others lift up the bundle to relieve him a little bit at every
stop. They are called the
« encruzados » because of the cross shaped
position of the arms.
In town, there are people everywhere with an atmosphere of both
street fair and ardor : tacos, balloons, cotton candy. In the diverse
churches of the town, the Christs arrive, wrapped in nice fabrics,
in processions with the sound of the drums and violins. There are
70 Christs represented : About ten at the Veracruz church where
we are. 10 people are needed to carry one “float”; the
base weighs 80 kg, the statue 80 kg and the decor 20 kg. When arrived
to “their” church, the Christs are prepared, pampered,
waxed and set up on their base, dressed, decorated and ornate. They
are on display for people that can touch them, sign and pray.
It is difficult to approach the church because of the horde of people.
Then the processions start again, flanked with the believers carrying
candles. They will last from 11PM to 5AM. You will hear the sound
of the drums all night long.
10:00PM : Procesión del Divino Preso. Empieza (beginning)
en la Parroquía de Santa Prisca and at 11:00PM : Procesión
de los Cristos. Empieza (beginning) en la Iglesia de la Veracruz.
Good Friday : This morning is a little bit quieter and
we can approach the Santa Prisca church. Then the processions start
from this church towards the Ex- Convent or vice –versa.
The penitents walk slowly on these cobblestoned, steep streets;
some carrying huge heavy crosses, stop every five minutes, kneel
and flagellate themselves : their backs bleed. They are called the
« flagelantes ». Their
“tool of flagellation” called « disciplina
», a kind of whip made of a rope with nails on the end, is
disinfected regularity, which intensify the pain. Another procession
show the dead Christ dismounted from the cross. Another one carries
the Christ lying on his back on a float. A procession honors Mary-Magdalene
with only young girls dressed in white and wearing lace scarves.
Other older women, the feet tethered and dressed in black, walk
bent at the waist. They are called the « encorvadas
We met a penitent who just ended his ride : two
men took the bundle away from him and another one maintained his
arms in a crossed shape to make sure that he won’t come back
to a normal position in a too much curt move.
The restaurant San Javier is a good place for diner while watching
the procession. The food is good and the staff is welcoming. At
midnight the silent procession starts ; no more music ; only candles.
these penitents belong to brotherhoods; they apply to be penitents
and are chosen by the brotherhood. Each of them does it on behalf
of faith, some to be forgiven for committed sins, others in order
for God to grant wishes like the wish of healing a parent; They
don’t get any credit for doing this since they are hooded.
11:00AM : Procesión de las Tres Caídas (the tree falls)
en la plaza Borda continua al Ex-Convento de San Bernardino de Sena.
1:00PM : Crucifixión de Jesús. Ex-Convento de San
Bernardino de Sena.
4:30PM : Descendimiento (dismount) de Jesús en el Ex-Convento
de San Bernardino de Sena.
5:00PM : Procesión solemne del Santo Entierro. Empieza (beginning)
en el Ex-Convento de San Bernardino de Sena (penitents dressed in
00H00 : Procesión del Silencio. Empieza (beginning) en el
Ex-Convento de San Bernardino de Sena (the silent penitents). Velación
(wake) a la Virgen de Dolores toda la noche (all night long).
Holy Saturday: Easter Vigil at Santa Prisca church
(11:00PM) followed by Midnight Mass.
Sunday: Procession of people dressed in white to commemorate
the day of Jésus’ resurrection in the main streets
of the city at 4:30PM (procesión de la Resurrección).
In 2014, Easter is the 20th of April 2014.
From one year to another one, the schedule of the processions could
change from 30 minutes to one hour. Take a program at the visitor
center in Taxco.
|No comment has been yet posted on this page.|